UP NEXT Sweden's little-known West Coast archipelago is Scandinavia's answer to the luxe summer be destination, just a remote one. , Gulligellitl rand llattil main building, which ad. an IM ghat/yak bus hoiatet rem/plain oms dodo? N.kablak,hlla bo.baatttt nls, F. lye hours west of bustling Stockholm lies FiskebackskR, a small fishing village tucked away in the Skagerrak Sea on Skafto, one of the thousands of islands of Sweden's West Coast archipelago. It's a lush green landscape dotted with small wooden houses, where sun-kissed blond Swedish children run around wearing nothing but flea ties on their upper arms, and where my family has spent the summers since I was born. One of my earliest memories of Fiskebackskil is being six years old, spending days sitting on the side of the road mak- ing a little store, like a lemonade stand. We sold small match- boxes that we'd decorated with seashells, and also mussels that we'd collected and painted. What little money we made, we'd always spend on ice cream. To get there, one flies into Gothenburg and takes a two- hour bus ride on Vasurafik, the city's public-transportation sys- tem. On Skafto, everyone walks or bikes. People only use cars for coming or going, so they're rarely seen. Between June and Sep- tember, the weather is perfect—sunny skies, 70-degree tempera- tures, and the most crisp, clean air. Our family, which lives most of the year in Manhattan, has a quaint little house on the island, but whenever friends visit, we recommend Fiskebackskil's 81 -room boutique hotel, Gullmarsstrand (rooms from $85: Stranderigra 2-14; 46-523/667- 788). The location doesn't get any better. We tell people to stay in the sea-view rooms, with floor-to.ceiling sliding glass doors that open.to private decks. I used the hotel's waterfront coal-burning sauna for the first time last summer, and it was awesome. It sits in a small room atop the water, and there's a door inside that opens to a platform you can